Salatin argues that having respect for this process, by treating whatever we are producing for food with care for the environment and animal, matters more than debating the 'naturalness' of being vegetarian or carnivorous. Certainly, the River Cottage Australia is one that shows respect for the process.

With Paul West, chef-turned-farmer and star of the show, we wander over to the sundrenched open pig pen amid the lush green rolling hills of Tilba, where the small-scale, 23-acre farm is and where the show is filmed. We are greeted by the raucous cries of fat, morel-coloured pigs, snuffling animals that nibble gently on outstretched hands and less gently on proffered zucchinis from the garden.

When a pig is ripe for eating West will leave it off the food over night.

"I'll section it off, put a bit of food on the ground and shoot him point blank," West explains.

"He doesn't know any different."

It's a far cry from the stress many pigs about to be slaughtered endure.

"Pig farming is heavily legislated because pathogens can most readily transfer between pigs and humans," West says. "It's quite concerning because [it means] major pork farmers pump the animal full of antibiotics to keep the population disease free."

The most recent outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease, he explains, started on a British farm.

"When authorities went there, they found decomposing, dead pigs being trampled, pigs being trampled, eating their own shit, cannibalising other dead pigs – of course disease is going to come from that.

"Whereas in an environment like this the chances of that happening are so unbelievably microscopic. Because the sun's the great steriliser."

He still keeps a close eye on his pigs.

"Of course, but that's the advantage of small-scale farming – you can. If you had 1000 pigs in a shed, you'd just feed and get out."

Keeping pigs in poor conditions also causes shocking waste.

A condition caused by extreme stress preslaughter, called pale soft exudative (PSE) meat is so common it causes the U.S. pork industry losses of $275 million and the Australian meat industry a little shy of $40 million in today's dollar annually. That's completely separate to whatever meat is included in the 20 per cent of food that Australians toss in the bin post purchase.

According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, PSE in pigs is caused by severe, short-term stress just prior to slaughter.

"The animal is subjected to severe anxiety and fright caused by manhandling, fighting in the pens and bad stunning techniques," FAO explains. "All this may result in biochemical processes in the muscle in particular in rapid breakdown of muscle glycogen and the meat becoming very pale with pronounced acidity and poor flavour."

Similarly, preslaughter stress can cause dark, dry, firm (DFD) meat, from sheep, cows and turkeys, that is equally as inedible.

Yet, for all poor farming practices and lack of respect for the animals, there are many farmers who, like Salatin says "look at nature and say, 'How do these animals live?' And we imitate that template."

That tends to be no more complicated than access to sunlight, free-range and grass feed.

I have been a strict ethical vegetarian for more than 20 years – I was shocked enough by a movie scene depicting the cruel killing and maiming of animals, that I forwent my beloved meat pie or the fat steak sandwich with charred onions on Tip Top bread and barbecue sauce dripping delectably down my fingers.

But it's hard not to respect farms like the one run by Paul West.

Aside from a responsibility towards the animal, waste can be minimised in good meat too.

West has a nose-to-tail philosophy of using as much of the animal as possible. He sits, chatting on a chair covered with the skin of one of his goats, the LSA Brown chooks will lay daily eggs (with yellow yolks because of the abundant beta-carotene found in grass) for 18 months, after which he'll turn them into bone broth or stock. He also has plans for Claudius, the eight-year-old boar he's been using to breed.

"The pig's getting pretty old – he was looking really shabby – bits of hair and stuff missing and a big goiter on his leg – a real hit with the ladies," West chuckles. "The owner said, if he drops dead just compost him."

Ways to eat ethically

Much as many of us might like to live like Paul West, unless you live in the country or are up for a tree change, it is not possible.

But, there are easy ways to eat more ethically.

1. Only buy certified free-range or organic eggs (don't be fooled by 'fresh' egg labels that are often cage-eggs in small-print). Be a pest like me and ask cafes and restaurants – only choose ones that serve free-range eggs. Check out the RSPCA's latest initiative www.choosewisely.org.au which which encourages cafes/restaurants to make the switch to cage-free and asks consumers to support these establishments.

2. Buy local, seasonal produce and buy at Farmer's Markets. If you want to buy fresh, organic, quality produce, this is often the most affordable way to do it. An added benefit is that you can often speak to the farmers direct to find out about how they operate.

3. Grow a vegie patch. In 1945, 40 percent of all vegetables consumed in the United States were grown in backyards. In the new season of The River Cottage starting on March 29 on Foxtel's Lifestyle channel, West will be exploring different urban gardens and providing plenty of tips.

4. Everyone could do with eating less meat of a better quality (grass-fed, certified free-range or organic meat). You could start with Meatless Mondays and check out Sustainable Table's list of ethical meat suppliers.

5. Choose sustainable seafood. Three-quarters of the world's oceans are over-exploited and up to 60 per cent of caught fish are discarded. Check out the free Sustainable Seafood Guide app and learn more through the Australian Marine Conservation Society.

6. Too many people don't know the origins of what they're eating. Visit a farm, try working on an organic farm (WWOOFing), or work at a community garden. Anything to reconnect with the process. "Our culture has systematically alienated people from the experience of dining," Salatin says.

"I can't believe how many kids come here and watch a chicken lay an egg and then say, 'Oh, is that where they come from?' The amount of culinary and ecological real-life ignorance in our culture is unbelievable...

"By coming [to a farm] and seeing the respect that's afforded to that animal all the way through, we can create a thankful, gracious, honouring experience when we come to eat."