David McCormack hands me a small desert raisin, known as a kutjera, and I bite into it, the initial tartness of its taste showing immediately on my face.
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"You know, one of these small raisins has more vitamin C than your regular orange," David explains.
After a few chews it gets sweeter - a natural candied treat, I think - and the perfect dessert course after the bush coconut I've just eaten... and just discovered is actually a tree growth filled with hundreds of insect larvae ("bush caviar" David smirkingly calls it).
Here in Standley Chasm in Central Australia, I would've missed these snacks if it hadn't been for David. But as part of the local Western Arrernte community that owns this site, he knows all its secrets. Well... not all of them.
That's because the most iconic part of Standley Chasm, or Angkerle Atwatye as it's called here, is the narrow passage cut by the elements through 80-metre-high rust-stained rock. And although its dramatic scenery has made it a popular tourist attraction, for generations it's also been a sacred site for women's dreaming. David can guide us here but there are some stories that are not his to know or share.
Still, as we wander along the water flowing between the ochre rock sculptures, he talks about legends of the large snake that is said to have formed Jay Creek, and the man and woman who walked from either side of the continent to meet here, depicted by the steep walls on either side.
"It's explaining the creation being's story or their journey, but it's also explaining geological events that happened," David says.
One of the region's most important creation stories is the Caterpillar Dreaming, which tells how three types of caterpillars made the landscapes around Alice Springs. When you see the hulking outlines of the MacDonnell Ranges, you can perhaps imagine they might be the bodies of the animals in their customary processional formation.
It's something to think about as you travel the roads of the Red Centre, with the hills as the background. Alice Springs serves as an excellent base for adventures around the city and, while Standley Chasm offers something interesting as a privately owned property with developed tourist facilities, these are some of the other great day trips from Alice Springs.
West MacDonnells
The West MacDonnell Ranges (Tjoritja), stretching for about 160 kilometres, offer some of the best sights around Alice Springs. With beautiful rock faces carved by the weather over millennia, there are water holes at their bases, providing a home for local wildlife - and some gorgeous swimming spots on hot days.
There are lots of places to stop on the drive through the hills, many of which have short walking trails to viewpoints or cultural sites. If you have the energy, there's always the possibility to tackle some of the 223-kilometre Larapinta Trail, which runs along the length of the West Macs.
Hermannsburg
The township of Hermannsburg, about 120 kilometres west of Alice Springs, is known these days for its art scene - the home of famed painter Albert Namatjira and now the potters who paint their ceramics with images inspired by his style.
But exploring the heritage of Hermannsburg is just as colourful. Established in 1877 as a Lutheran mission, much of the original infrastructure is here, offering an insight into a life that brought Indigenous and European cultures together. Finke River Cultural Tours is run by descendants of the Aboriginal people who lived here and offers an interesting perspective on the legacy of the missionaries.
Finke Gorge National Park
In a region where Uluru and Kings Canyon dominate, another national park, Finke Gorge, doesn't get much attention. But this protected area near Hermannsburg has incredible landscapes that you're likely to have all to yourself.
The centrepiece is the Finke River, first formed about 350 million years ago and thought to be the one of the world's oldest rivers. Following the path of an offshoot will lead you into Palm Valley, the park's most popular hike, full of cycads and tall palms that are ancient remnants of when this was a tropical forest. You'll need a 4WD to get all the way to Palm Valley, or join Alice Springs Expeditions for a guided tour.
East MacDonnells
Another way to escape the crowds is to head east into the MacDonnell Ranges, where you'll find plenty of sights but not too many tourists. The first 75 kilometres are on a sealed road, and then you'll need a 4WD to go further and discover the beautiful gaps, gorges, water holes, nature parks, and cultural heritage.
Just like the western hills, there are walking trails here to explore the scenery and some significant Aboriginal art sites. But you'll also find a bush pub for an outback feed.
Rainbow Valley
Alternatively, take the Stuart Highway south, before going offroad to Rainbow Valley, a natural artwork where sandstone bluffs and cliffs have bands of different coloured rocks. In the morning or late afternoon, it's even more vibrant as the ochre red turns to orange and purple.
Walks in the reserve will lead you past other sites decorated by majestic trees or wind-chiselled bluffs. And through it all, like everywhere else you'll visit in the Red Centre, is an ancient heritage of creation stories, sacred sites, and continuous culture.
- Michael Turtle was supported by Tourism NT. You can see more day trips from Alice Springs on his Travel Australia Today website.