Corregidor makes peace with its turbulent past

The date was May 6, 1942, and it was the Americans, alongside the Filipinos, who were fighting to protect Corregidor Island this time. I say "this time" because Corregidor has changed hands constantly over the centuries. This rock rising out of the water is situated at a strategic point of Manila Bay and is one of the most important defences for the capital of the Philippines. Whoever holds Corregidor, holds Manila.

It's for this reason that, during World War II, the Japanese were so intent on claiming it. To them, it was the key to their planned conquest of the Pacific.

For months they bombarded the island, throwing everything they had at it. From December 1941 until May the following year, Japanese aircraft flew more than 600 missions, dropping more than 1700 bombs on Corregidor Island, while artillery fired consistently. It's estimated that on the night of heaviest fire, more than 16,000 shells hit the island.

In the end, Corregidor fell to the Japanese when they finally landed on the shore after months of attacks from a distance. The American and Filipino men, outnumbered and exhausted from surviving on meagre rations for months, fought back as best as they could - not just for their lives, but for the future of the world. But, when it was clear they couldn't win, the commander sent a message to President Franklin Roosevelt: "There is a limit of human endurance, and that point has long been passed".

I think about all of this as I walk amongst the twisted metal and broken concrete skeletons of the buildings that were once here. A two-hour boat trip from the capital, Corregidor Island is now one of the most interesting attractions for visitors to Manila.

It's partly about what you see, but also about the significance of its role in history. Because the Japanese success in taking the island did indeed allow them to control Manila Bay, the finest port in the Far East, from where they were able to expand their advance across much of Asia.

The tide turned a few years later and Corregidor was retaken from the Japanese in February 1945 - the last major military action it would see. Since the Spanish first established a base on the island in 1570, it had also been held by the Dutch, the British, and the Americans. The island had known nothing but war for centuries, so it's fitting that's what you see when you visit today.

Although infrastructure has been added in recent years to allow for tourism (including a 31-room hotel), the heritage from the years of conflict has been left relatively untouched. Across Corregidor are the ruins of the military base run by the Americans and Filipinos during World War II. The buildings that were destroyed by bombs have been left that way and others, destroyed by time, have been secured but not rebuilt. The large bases for the guns are still here and, in many cases, the guns are too.

One of the most impressive parts of the island is the enormous tunnel complex inside a mountain. The main tunnel, with entrances at each end, is 250 metres long and about seven metres wide. Twenty-four smaller tunnels of about 50 metres long come off it in both directions. Originally it was designed as bomb-proof storage but, when the Japanese siege became too much, it was used as a bunker, a hospital, and a command centre. It was from here inside Malinta Tunnel that General Douglas MacArthur had his headquarters - and the President of the Philippines even used it as his seat of government at one point during the war.

While it's possible to walk around these heritage areas, most tickets to Corregidor Island include a free trolley tour of the main sights. There are some people (particularly locals) who visit for the parks and the beaches that you'll find along some of the shoreline, a far cry from what you would've found here 80 years ago.

Unfortunately, Corregidor has been hit by another global emergency recently - the pandemic - and there are no longer daily tours from Manila. With no public transport, you need to rely on the private ferry operators who are currently going just once a week. They offer visitors full-day packages with a tour and buffet lunch, and I think it's worth making the time to come out here when you're in this part of the Philippines.

Even with tourists, Corregidor is mostly quiet these days, although the natural landscape has grown back and thousands of birds now make it home, filling the air with their calls. Far from hectic Manila, the noises of the animals mix with the wind in the trees and the lapping of the water on the shore. But there are no bombs, no artillery fire. It's hard to imagine how noisy and chaotic it must have been during those months of constant attacks.

Thankful for the peace I find here today, I feel it's also important to not forget the lives that were lost on the island and the heroism of those who held out for so long, determined to protect Corregidor - and this part of the world - against all odds.

You can see more about visiting Corregidor Island on Michael's Time Travel Turtle website.